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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.